From the Gem of the Rockies to the Heart of Route 66

October and November

During these two months I was committed to getting some projects started and/or completed in between my travels.  As for my yard, I had Pro Lawn apply the last treatment on the 12^th of October and my underground sprinkling system blown out on the 26^th.    I also still have to mow the lawn a couple more times before the snow flies.  Indoors, my most pressing project is to pare down boxes and boxes of “stuff”, especially teaching supplies.  I’m filling up the 30 gallon barrel that gets picked up weekly to the top and then some.  I’m taking items and clothes to Goodwill.  I had to totally clear out Nathan’s old room so Karen could move in.  Paring down was tedious and slow; the results, however, felt really good!   I even got so carried away that I organized all my kitchen cupboards and lined them with shelving paper. 

Nathan had achieved what he claims as his greatest hunting achievement of date and that was to fill his mountain goat permit with his bow!!  He did that in late September. 

I did take Oct. 12^th and 13th, a Thursday and Friday, to drive up to Glacier Park.  I played nine holes at Silver Fox on the way up. Not only was it a beautiful afternoon, I was only charged $5.00 (an autumn rate).   I got a room in a rustic motel right across the highway from West Glacier.  All the furniture was made of peeled logs, even the night table and desk. It was clean and charming.  I ventured up to Izaac Walton Inn first thing the next morning.  It is a classic old hotel built by the Great Northern Railroad in 1939.  A guest there could either stay in the original lodge or in one of the train cars they have tucked up in the woods on the hillside. (The cars have been remodeled on the inside and are very classy.) The lodge maintains cross-country ski trials in the winter.  I would like to ride the train up there from Whitefish to ski for a day, have dinner, and then catch the train back to Whitefish in the evening. 

A few miles further down from Essex on Highway 2, there is a well-known salt lick right on the edge of the Flathead River.  Mountain goats can usually be found there.  I spotted three goats resting at the top and a billy halfway down the cliff side.  I got to watch him work his way up to the others once he had finished licking up the amount of salt he wanted.  What a treat!

I stopped at the train depot/museum to take a look around and learn about the train schedule.  Next I headed on into the park – saving the best for last. 

Because all the lodges and concessions closed down on Oct. 1^st, there were very few tourists.  With so little traffic on the Going to the Sun Road, I could do “photo op” stops whenever I wanted.   The park was magnificent that day in so many ways.  I drove to the visitor’s center, parked, and hiked up the boardwalk/trail to Hidden Lake viewpoint.  A bonus was viewing four mountain sheep eating or just resting right along the trail.  (I have seen goats there before, but never sheep.)  They never moved the whole time I was there.   There was a family at the vista site so we not only visited but took pictures of each other.  I was able to capture not only the amazing view, 

but also the fact that I was there. 

On the drive out, I stopped to take pictures of McDonald Creek and the foliage along its banks.  Lake McDonald was so calm, it was mirroring the autumn splendor along its shores.  The final bonus of the trip came back down in West Glacier.  A big black bear was sauntering by the post office.  From the confines of my car I was able to snap a couple of pictures of him.  I felt like a very fortunate woman to have been in such a magnificent place and see so much wildlife!

Marci and Nathan came over for the U of M homecoming  and I got to see them on Sunday before they headed back for Bozeman.  The next week I  was invited down to Hamilton to have lunch with Anne and Walt Peckinpaugh and Sarah.  She had flown in from D.C. to spend some time with them.

We reminisced, shared pictures, and made plans to see each other again.

Earlier that week, I hiked to Carlton Lake with Laura Fricke and three of her friends.  The entire walk was in snow so it was a good thing I wore my hiking boots and gloves.     

On Monday, the 23^rd, I drove a U Haul truck to Great Falls to pick up the last of my furniture and miscellaneous items.  Fortunately it was a sunny day and the highway was dry.  Roger had everything ready and out in his garage so the loading went quickly.  Finally, I have closure on this chapter of my life.

On November 4^th, I took Elly and Dave to see CATS.   MCT did a fabulous job with staging, casting, and costuming.  I was so impressed and so entertained!   So were they. 

I mowed and mulched my entire yard for the very last time this year on November the 8^th.   The weather conditions had been such that the grass kept growing and staying  green even though I had stopped watering.

I have been able to jog or ride my bike daily due to the pleasant afternoons. 

On Monday, November 13^th, I began the process of changing my name back to Peckinpaugh.  I already had a legal document, my dissolution decree, that allowed me to do so.  I just dreaded the process and all the “hoops” it would require.  Mike Keffler suggested I check out web sites that might give advice about the process.  BINGO!  I found a great one that listed what I should do first, second, third, etc.  So I began in earnest to get the name transition made. 

THE RED LOBSTER SHINDIG

On the 20^th, I flew to Oklahoma for the Thanksgiving holiday.  Martha and Cynthia met me at the airport.  I rented a car and followed them to Shawnee where we met John, Alan, Ran, Will, Janelle, and even Jeff!  He was there finishing up a rotation at an Eye Institute in Oklahoma.  We met at the Red Lobster (a treat for me since we don’t have one in Missoula).  We ate, talked, laughed, and closed the place down.  Because Martha took all the pictures she is not in them unfortunately. We went to Alan’s home to see his remodeling accomplishments.  From there I followed Janelle to her home in Norman.  The next day, I drove on down to Wynnewood to spend time with John and Matilde.  John and I spent quite a bit of time going through dad’s old photo albums.  We took over 70 pictures to the local WalMart to get them scanned and put on a CD, one for John and one for me.  The pictures are just priceless. 

On Wednesday, I drove to OKC to see Ran and his place which is several miles outside of the city.  He is out in a lovely rural setting with a small lake behind his place.  From there I drove to Edmond to try and visit Ann Brandt.  I never succeeded due to several reasons, mainly no phone number to reach her to get directions, but in hindsight, that was a good thing.  I had picked up a virus bug from Janelle. 

 I drove to Berryhill  from Edmond by way of Route 66 and enjoyed the scenery, the historical markers, and even the Stable Ridge Winery I discovered.  Of course, I had to stop and do some wine tasting and buy a couple of bottles.  I got to Berryhill around 6:00 pm.   After dinner, we watched John’s DVD of CARS together and really enjoyed it.  I felt fine through the movie, but after I went to bed it turned into a rough night.  On Thursday, I stayed in the back room while the rest of the family had the Thanksgiving dinner.  I didn't get many pictures that day.  I sat outside in the sunshine and fresh air for awhile during the afternoon.  I might add, Tulsa was having a heat  wave, it was up in the 70’s almost everyday.  I was much better by Friday.  However, everyone in that house caught whatever this bug was.  Fortunately, not as severe a case as I had.

Two great things happened on my last day in Berryhill.  With Martha’s help I finished my Creative Memories Las Vegas album I had started months before.  There will be very little journaling because the pictures are so amazing, not only of the shows but also of Red Rock Canyon, Mt. Charleston, Death Valley, the golf courses I played, etc.  The other feat was getting registered for a blog site.  Cynthia helped me there.  Once I get back to Montana, I can get started recording with words and photos my experiences of this special year.

The James Geiger family has a tradition of decorating the Christmas tree on the weekend following Thanksgiving.  I was there to capture the action.  Martha served homemade eggnog to all of us.  We had an eggnog mustache contest.  Carly and Cynthia tied as the winners.

My brother, James, has a TV show called Doc Geiger’s Outdoor Adventures.  He has branched out from fishing to other sports, such as  bow hunting.  He is able to go to a place less than ten miles from their home to hunt.  I believe it is on private land and the owner wanted the deer population culled down.  James took his son-in-law, Jeff Robinson, out one morning while I was visiting and Jeff got his first buck with a bow.  He was so pleased, as you can see from this photo. 

I left Tulsa’s warm weather and arrived back in Missoula to find it in a major cold snap.  My yard and trees were frosted with snow.  Because it was so beautiful, I accepted the temperature adjustment in stride. 

Back  in October Nathan took Jeff and his dad antelope hunting over east of Mile City. They were successful and had a good time together in spite of the bitter cold weather.  Jeff had flown to Bozeman from Seattle to do this hunt.  A month later, Jeff returned to Montana from his rotation in Oklahoma to have Thanksgiving with the Peckinpaugh side of his family.  Thursday evening, he and Nathan drove up to Trout Creek after the big feast with their grandparents down in Hamilton.  During the two days they were there, they each got a deer.  It was the final week of hunting season for Montana.  Jeff was pleased to take some venison to his freezer in Seattle.

I’m ready now to charge into the month of December and welcome in winter.  Christmas is just around the corner and I want to be ready. 

Nathan and Marci will be coming over the first weekend in December for the annual Hunter’s Party.  Marci shot an antelope when just she and Nathan were hunting.  Nathan got a bull elk during bow season as well as the goat.  Randy and Kelly Schott always host the party here in Florence for all their hunting friends to come and show off the antlers, skulls, hides, etc. from their successful hunting that season. I'm even invited to come although I don't hunt. I will just admire and visit for awhile.  Nathan and Marci also will be bringing me a tree.  Nathan will help me get it in the stand and string the lights.

I officially started lighting up my outdoor tree on November 30^{th ,} shortly after my return.  Jeff redid all the lights on it the Christmas before and now it has over 2000 lights, all white.  (I call it my tree of hope.  All my neighbors love to see it lit up as well.)   We just leave the lights on year round and haul out the extension cord when the holiday season arrives. 

  INDIAN SUMMER

2006

September is one of my favorite months of the year.  It gives me a mix of cold crisp mornings and warm glorious afternoons.  This combination ultimately brings out a brilliant show of colors.  The mountainsides and the valleys are dressed in vibrant reds, oranges, and yellows against the intense blue of an autumn sky.

Maxine Searles and I arranged to try out the new course in East Missoula called Canyon River.  Even though it was August 30^th, the day was chilly.  However,  we still enjoyed the course.  It has a nice layout and was in excellent condition.

(I read in the paper later that a resident fox tends to pick up golfers’ drives on one of the holes and hides the golf balls out in the rough.   Fortunately he was not there when we played.)   On a couple of warm sunny September afternoons, I did work in more time on the links at Silver Fox (in Pablo) and at Linda Vista. 

I wanted to savor this bittersweet time at home and on the road.  My first adventure started at my local ski area, Snow Bowl September 10^th.   They operatethe Grizzly chairlift on weekends throughout the summer and into early September.  The chairs are equipped to take bicycles up as well as people. I took the chair up with my bike riding up on the chair behind me.  I then peddled up a four and a half-mile service road to Point Six, which is the very top of the mountain.  The views were spectacular in all directions.  I could see the Mission Mountains, the five valleys that feed into Missoula, and all the ski runs, minus snow, but alive with color.  It was an eleven mile cruise back down to the parking lot.  I stopped several times along the way trying to capture what I was seeing with my new digital camera.

On September 11^th, another beautiful day, Laura DeNitto and I hiked up to the top of St. Mary’s Peak.  We stayed on top for at least an hour, eating our lunch and savoring the views in all directions.  We especially appreciated the fact that it was calm because usually one has to put on layers due to the wind chill factor.   

On Saturday, September 16^th, I headed out on an extensive loop that would take me through five states.  My first stop was Bozeman, where Nathan and Marci live.  Their welcome mat is always out for me whether they are home or not.   The next day I took quite a bit of time at the site of the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument.  Back in June of 1876, General George Custer and five companies of the 7^th Calvary were overwhelmed by Sioux and Cheyenne warriors.   Chief Sitting Bull, a Lakota Sioux, had a lifelong goal to remain independent of the U.S. government.   He also knew the soldiers were coming to fight them so he had his allies band together to defend themselves.  They successfully defeated the 36 year old “boy general”, leaving no survivors.

It was a sobering experience to be there.   It was a cold and drizzly day which added to the tragedy that took place there for both sides.  The film I viewed in the visitors’ center did a graphic job of showing how the battle progressed and ended.

I traveled south from there on the interstate through the Crow Reservation.  I drove by the town of Lodge Grass.   A friend of mine grew up on a ranch in that area.   I found it to be beautiful country with its pastures and rolling hills.   I pushed across the state line and drove through Wyoming with my destination being Denver, Colorado.   I arrived late at night, but my niece, Laura, was up waiting for me.  Her home was my first major stop.  I wanted to spend time with her, her husband, Garrick, and their two adorable children, Sarah and Isaac.

I not only got to spend quality time with them but also spent a couple of days with Donna Shepherd.  She and I were pledge sisters at Baylor and we have stayed in touch all these many years!  It was great  reconnecting  with her and getting to meet her husband, Rick.  Donna and I went to her health club, went out to lunch, had a BBQ, with Rick doing the cooking, in her back yard, took a lovely walk on the greenbelt trail easy to reach from her house.  We also  found an apartment for her daughter, Laura,  a military wife, who  would be moving back to Denver for the coming year while her husband, Steve, would be stationed in South Korea.  The weather made doing outdoor activities so enjoyable.  I took a bike ride one afternoon from Laura’s house on a bike path that is part of Denver's greenbelt.  I also discovered Wellshire Golf Club close by and I played nine holes one morning   My final night in Denver was memorable because we were able to get our cousin, Teri Cuthbertson, over for dinner and a visit.  I hadn’t seen her in SO long.   Laura has an amazing workshop in their basement.   Teri and I enjoyed seeing her power tools and some of her finished projects. 

On the 22^nd, I packed up my gear and headed west with Vail as my next destination.  I did swing by Prospect Valley Elementary School where I did my first three years of teaching after graduating from Baylor.  It looked like I pictured it…especially on the outside.  When I was there, it was more of an open space school and now there are some walls.  Because it was an expensive brick building, it is holding up well.  Even the carpet is the same after more than 30 years!  The principal was gracious enough to give me a tour.  I was so fortunate to have this elementary school be my first teaching experience.  I learned so much during my three years working there.

I did spend a couple of hours in Georgetown on my way to Vail.  I have wonderful memories of evenings of hot spiced wine and live music at the Red Ram.  It was a favorite spot for us skiers to warm up and relax on our way back to Denver.   Because Georgetown started as a mining town, it has quite a few historical buildings.  I got a private tour through the Hotel De Paris, built back in 1875 by Louis Dupuy.  Born in France in 1844, he came to America when he was 22.  He ended up out west as a roving reporter covering the mining towns.  He became so enamored of the mining life that he decided to become a miner himself.  He was badly injured in 1873 in a mining explosion as he saved a co-worker.  The people of Georgetown raised enough money for him to rent a bakery.  In a few years he purchased it and created a restaurant and hotel, wanting to bring a touch of European inspired elegance to the rugged mining town.  It is now preserved as a museum well worth visiting.

 I got to Vail a couple of hours before Casey got off work so I drove around and snapped pictures of some of the very expensive homes.  The setting for them was wonderful because there was snow on the ground from a recent storm as well as beautiful aspen trees in the yards.  Pat Casey actually lives in Edwards, a few miles past Vail.  I not only got to spend time with her but also her daughter.  Jessica flew in from L.A. the same day.  She moved there in order to get into acting as a career.  It is hard to believe Pat Casey and I haven’t seen each other in over 20 years because we were so comfortable visiting .  She works at a bank and has a very nice condo with lots of room.

After our leisurely conversation over breakfast, I headed out for Ouray.  Because it is situated in a river valley at 7,700 feet in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, it has been nicknamed the Switzerland of America.   (I never made it down to the southwest section of Colorado when I lived in Denver, so I was determined to see it on this trip.)   Autumn was when I wanted to be there because of the glorious display of the aspen stands’ colors.  Now that I have been there, I definitely want to return in the summer and check out the hiking trails, the Box Canyon waterfall, and the Ouray Hot Springs Pool which is right in town.    

I had the unique experience of staying in the historic Western Hotel.  My room was only $40.00 because it did not have heat.  The hotel was built back in 1891.  Its restaurant and bar were kept warm by a wood burning stove.  Actually, by sleeping in my sweat shirt and sweat pants under a couple of blankets, I was very comfortable.  My room did have electricity and lovely Victorian furniture.  I bought a glass of white wine from the bar, took it to my room and watched a movie on my lap top while snuggled in under my blankets.  It was a memorable experience.

The next morning arrived cold and crisp with a brilliant blue sky.  The view from the hotel porch was stunning.    It was a perfect day to drive the 23-mile Million Dollar Highway from Ouray to Silverton.  It was originally a toll-road built in the 1880’s.   There were photo opportunities all along the way.  I saw old mine buildings, snow-capped mountains, splashes of aspen gold, and a sole mountain sheep grazing along side of the road.    I arrived in Silverton by 9:00 AM, in time to see the narrow gauge railroad train in all its glory.  It was loading up passengers for their return trip to Durango.  Silverton is another Colorado town with a mining history.  It is located at 9,318 feet in the San Juan Mountains with a year round population of 500.  There is one paved road in the entire town…making it very picturesque.   I got some great shots of the train while the passengers were loading at the original old train station.  Another great photo opportunity!

The scenery continued to impress me as I drove to Durango.  I spent two nights in the Durango area because Pam and Wayne Dale live there and had me stay with them.  Pam and I had lived together 30-some years earlier when we were single and working in Denver.  What a treat to reconnect with them.  They live 12 miles out from town in a house Pam designed and Wayne built.  I took advantage of being so close to Mesa Verde National Park.  I spent the next day there.   I found the cliff dwellings numerous and in amazing condition considering they were built in the 1200’s.  I took guided tours through Cliff Palace and the Balcony House.  The park guides really helped me appreciate the history and the culture of these ancient people as well as understand their engineering feats.  I also took a self-guided tour of the Spruce Tree House. 

“Back at the ranch” that evening, we visited and reminisced while eating a delicious dinner Pam had prepared for us.  I certainly understand why they chose to live there and I would like to return in the winter sometime and ski Purgatory with them. 

The pictograph in the upper left picture was painted on the inside of one of the rooms in the Grand Palace dwelling.  The guides feel it represents the mountain range to the north.  The upper right photo is of a Kiva, a Hopi word for ceremonial room - here underground chambers that may be comparable to later churches.  Pilasters supported a beam-and-mud roof.  Entry was by ladder through a hole in the center of the roof.  The small hole in the floor is a sipapu, or symbolic entrance to the underworld.

The next morning after a conversation-filled breakfast, I loaded up the car and drove to Albuquerque, New Mexico.  I did stop in Santa Fe long enough to wander about in the Palace of the Governors Square.  The Native Americans have their jewelry and art work for sale on blankets in front of this ancient building which is now a museum.  Back in my college days I would drive out to Glorietta Baptist Assembly the last week of August.  Glorietta is located up in the mountains outside of Santa Fe.  College students from all over the southwest would gather for this week that was geared especially for us.  Our afternoons would be free and some of us would venture into the city at least once during our week’s stay.   It still looked like I remembered.  I did buy two sterling silver golf ball markers.  They were about all I could afford as souvenirs.

I wanted to make it to Aunt Betty’s before suppertime.  She lives in Albuquerque.  She has a nice two bedroom apartment in a retirement center there.  Her daughter, Mary, and her husband live nearby.  Aunt Betty was a wonderful hostess.  She had lined up tickets for me to have dinner and breakfast in the dining room as well as my own guest room in the building.  She gave me the royal tour of the facility after we ate.  She has been there for 15 or so years now.  She is dad’s only living sibling; and an older sister at that!  She gets around really well with her walker and her electric scooter.  I really enjoyed my time with her.  I hadn’t seen her since she moved away from Sapulpa.   Spending time with her was the main reason for going to Albuquerque.  She did suggest, however, that while she went to a doctor’s appointment I ride the Sandia Peak tramway.  Actually she lives quite close to it, so I “played tourist” and checked it out.  It opened in 1966 and claims it is the world’s longest aerial tramway.  Both the ride up and the ride down provided wonderful views of the city and surrounding countryside.  There is a ski area on the backside and hiking trails up on top as well as a restaurant.  I am so glad I took my camera with me. 

After bidding Aunt Betty farewell, I headed for Flagstaff, Arizona.   I was eager to make the drive through Oak Creek Canyon down to Sedona.   Steve and I had spent time there when the boys were really young.  I was not disappointed!  The canyon, the stream, and bold colors of the rock formations were awesome.  I especially wanted to return to TLAQUEPAQUE.  It is an arts and crafts village with Old Mexico architecture set amidst towering sycamores, gardens, and tiled courtyards.  Steve purchased a large framed sketch done in pencil for me. It was entitled “Cowboys and Indians”.  It reminded us so much of Nathan and Jeff.  I still have it hanging in my home and it brings me so much pleasure; it  embodies my memories of their childhood days.

As I was strolling through the galleries and shops, a salesman signed me up to stay in a very classy resort in Sedona right on Oak Creek for that night.   So for $39.00 I got this huge luxurious room and $50.00 worth of “funny money” to spend.  I made it stretch to cover dinner, breakfast the next morning, and still had some to spend at a sporting goods store for some fancy running socks.  I even was given passes to play miniature golf.  After 15 minutes, the sales person could see I was not a five star hotel type person and set me free instead of keeping me for the full 90 minute presentation.  On my way back up Oak Creek Canyon, I checked out a natural water slide appropriately named Slide Rock State Park.  It is a beautiful recreation area.  The day wasn’t hot enough for me to want to done my swimsuit.  I did walk along a stretch of it and dangled my feet in the water. 

Once back in Flagstaff, I visited the office and headquarters of Canyons Explorations – the company that took me down the Grand Canyon in July of 2004.  I wanted them to see my photo album and to know how memorable my 15 days on the Colorado River was.  The same terrific guides I had were pulling a group out at Diamond Peak that very day.  With supplies and guidance from Martha, I had created an impressive album that captured the essence of the “canyon”.  (I must admit that most of the photos I used were shared with me by my fellow travelers.  They put their pictures in albums on Snapfish.com.  I then was able to view them and order prints.)   The office staff wanted to scan all the pages because they had never seen anything like it before.

On the homeward part of my loop through the southwest, I drove through Monument Valley.  Many westerns have been filmed there and I can see why.  It was a beautiful afternoon with practically no traffic so I was able to stop where-ever I wanted to take pictures.  It is a Navajo Tribal Park.  I wonder how long Mexican Hat Rock will stay balanced?  Seems vulnerable.  I did see several hogans, but no Navajo women carding, spinning, or weaving out in front of them; probably because it was almost evening when I was there.

I stayed in a motel in Blanding, Utah.  I wanted to hit Moab and Arches National Park early the next morning.

I am so glad I gave myself most of the day in Arches.  There is so much to see.  The most famous arch is Delicate  Arch and requires a two mile hike to reach, most of it uphill.  The trail takes you by the Wolfe Ranch.  John Wolfe  built a couple of log cabins on a 100 acres along a Salt Wash back in the late 1800’s.  He lived there for a decade raising a few cattle each year in the grassland the water provided.  Every step of the hike getting to Delicate Arch  was worth it for the view.  SPECTACULAR!!  I probably spent an hour soaking it in.  As the day progressed, I also got to see the Balanced Rock, Double Arch, the Windows Section, Garden of Eden, and Park Avenue to name a few of the more memorable ones. 

I gave myself a couple of hours to ride my bike before leaving the Moab area.  The trail that was recommended is not actually in the park.  I rode out for 45 minutes on the Klondike Bluffs Trail and then had to turn back due to shortage of time.  I really needed to start a serious push for home.  I drove into the night some to get through the rest of Utah.  The next morning I drove through Idaho on the interstate and got off near Dillon, Mt. to take Highway 278 to Lost Trail Pass.  My only miscalculation of the entire trip occurred on this last day of driving….yes, I ran out of gas.

It was a Sunday afternoon when my Saab totally ran out of fuel 23 miles from Dillon in an area with no cell phone reception.  Fortunately I got a ride back to Dillon where I bought a gas can and some gas.  Then I was able to get another ride back to my car.   Doug Nicholson and his son Cody were such good “Samaritans”.  They were heading back to Salmon, Idaho with a horse he had bought for his wife.  He not only got me back to my car, he followed me to Wisdom to make sure I got there.  We parted ways at the pass.  I will forever be grateful for his concern and helpfulness. 

In spite of my set back, I still managed to get home Sunday evening by suppertime.  Karen O’Hara was watching the house for me on weekends and she even had dinner ready for us to eat together before she headed back to Hamilton to her apartment.  I was blessed with traveling mercies, good roads, little traffic, few tourists, and great weather.  Indeed, I got to savor Indian summer in such beautiful and varied settings. 

WHAT A TRIP!!!  My eighteen-year-old Saab now has over 400,000 miles on her.  Hopefully, we will have many more journeys together.

The next day, October 1^st, North American Van Lines arrived with mom and dad’s dining room table and chairs as well as dad's desk.  The movers did mention that it was the heaviest desk they had ever dealt with.  It does look great down on the south end of my downstairs living area.   Every time I see it or sit at it, I visualize dad.  He spent quite a bit of time there using the phone, reading his mail, handling his business matters, etc.

I am glad we could keep it in the family.