February 13, 2007
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FROM MOUNT BAKER TO MAUNA KEA
JANUARY 2007
Needless to say, this was to be my most prodigious trip of the year…so far. It involved the greatest over-all distance covered on land and sea (the Pacific Ocean to be exact).
I left home in my trusty Saab on January 18th around 9:30 in the morning.
I had a new air filter put in by Jiffy Lube after I bought it at Checker Auto. Actually Checker sold me the wrong one. A worker from Jiffy took it back and got me the correct one. (They treat me so well there.)
I also made a side trip to the public library to check out five audio books. I tried to pick a variety of genres. I started out listening to Sue Grafton’s alphabet murder mysteries.
Finally I’m off to Look Out Pass. They do have LOTS of snow and few people so I got my fill of skiing there in about four hours. They have put in two new chairs since I was there a few years ago. My favorite run for powder was Niagara. Roger and Bev Ruhl not only fed me dinner when I got to Spokane but we watched For Love of the Game. Roger loves baseball and I knew he would like this DVD I had with me. Bev’s mom, Ruth, was staying with them for a week since her medical procedure she had done at Community Hospital the previous week. She went on to bed after dinner and we curled up on the couch in their den and watched the movie snuggled under blankets.
The next morning I arranged to meet with my old friend, Tom Kimbrell. He selected a really fun diner for breakfast. It is a converted passenger car and it does serve great food. I brought along my lap top and was able to show him pictures of my recent trips and he caught me up on his latest adventures and his recent surgeries. His hands now are almost back to normal. He described the intricate surgery – seemed awesome to me. Tom is already back to his active outdoor lifestyle.
After having breakfast with Tom, I got directly on the interstate and headed for Seattle. Fortunately it was only raining at Snoqualmie Pass and the traffic was fairly light. Jeff’s directions got me through Seattle and right to his door.
We went to GI Joe’s to pick up his tuned skis. He also bought a helmet.
(Steve had given him money at Christmas to get one.) I bought one too, but later found it wasn’t compatible with my goggles. When I get back to Missoula, I will buy a pair when they go on sale. Next on our agenda was dinner. We took Brian out with us for some Thai food. Brian then went out with a friend, but Jeff and I crashed early because we would be getting up at 4:45 to go skiing. Yes, I said 4:45!
Fortunately I had gotten my ski gear organized the night before so we were able to make a quick get away. We drove to Matt’s apartment where Brett Staninger picked us all up and drove us to Mount Baker.
Needless to say, we got there when the lifts opened. Baker had gotten 12 inches of snow in the last two days so we had great conditions and skied hard all day. (Matt actually is a snowboarder). The guys looked for chutes and jumps on diamond runs all day. I went everywhere they did – just avoiding the jumps. It snowed lightly all day so I wasn’t able to actually see Mt. Baker, but I did see some majestic mountains all around us and even a glacier. We were exhausted at the end of the day from skiing over 20,000 vertical feet.
Back in Seattle, I walked across the street to the Metropolitan Market. I got us a pizza to bake, and me some Mike’s Hard Lemonade to wash it down. The fridge was already well-stocked with beer for the guys . After supper, Brian went out with a medical student. I took a hot relaxing bath and then watched Point Break on my lap top till I fell asleep. Jeff gave me his room for the two nights I was visiting and he slept down in the basement.
I had another early morning to face – an 8:00 flight to Hawaii. Jeff not only got me to the airport in plenty of time, he even kept my car at his place while I was gone. Mahalo Jeff for being my wonderful son and a very considerate host.
At last, the big day has arrived. I woke before I needed to…excited? Perhaps!
I was actually ready to go to the airport before Jeff was. I needed to be there by 6:30. Once there, he waited until he was sure I was checked in. Actually there was a small glitch at the counter. The Hawaiian Airlines computer couldn’t find me. Fortunately I had written down my confirmation number on my printout and that took care of the problem. I got my ticket and was on my way. At Honolulu, I changed planes and took the short hop to Kona, Hawaii.
I was shuttled over to the rental car agency. They were out of economy cars so I ultimately got a yellow PT Cruiser convertible. What a way to travel in Hawaii!!
No, Captain Jack did not meet me. He and I got together toward the end of my stay. I just wanted to put his picture here. Christine had emailed me excellent directions to get to her home and I got there with no wrong turns. I arrived mid-afternoon on a Sunday and her husband was out playing golf. We took the two boys, Mark and Jeremiah, with us on a drive which ultimately went down a lava road bed to a dead end. That is where our walk began to the “end of the world”. An extraordinary event took place here in 1820. King Kamehameha ll decided to abolish their ancient religion. It was based on the kapu system: a myriad of laws that were maintained with death as the usual punishment for violation. Up till then Hawaiians believed that rigid enforcement was necessary or the gods would punish the whole community in the form of earthquakes, tsunamis, lava flows, and famine. A ferocious battle broke out between the King’s forces and Kekuaokalani, a cousin who was to be king of the spiritual world, and his followers. On the lava terraces cut into the side of the mountain are the graves of the hundreds who died in that battle. The Hawaiian religion, as a dominant force, died with them on that bloody day. With a name befitting the area, a cliff-jumping spot past the battlefield is called End of the World.
We saw people sitting but no one jumping. The sun was setting as we headed back to the car. We had dinner on their lanai (deck) where we ate all our meals. It has a spectacular view of Kona, the beaches and ocean.
A 75-year-old woman named Cindy is living in an extra room downstairs temporarily. She had prepared a delicious dinner and we sat out until well after dark enjoying the evening and the conversation.
On Monday morning Christine and I took the boys for a stroller/walk (about two miles round trip). I was amazed at all the flowering plants and various types of palm trees growing everywhere along the way. Her yard alone has coffee bean trees, banana trees, a palm tree, hibiscus plants, and a papaya tree. These are only the ones I can name. There are so many more.
We loaded the boys up and headed out to Kua Bay. It is just past the airport and the waves were just the right size. By that I mean, I could boogie board without getting thrashed. It was a blast!! I would guess the waves were five feet tall when they started to curl. The color of the water near the beach was almost turquoise. The temperature was 82 degrees. What a memorable day – everything seemed perfect.
We had an early dinner with Scott’s parents with us before they took Mark to AWANA. Sandie, Christine’s mother-in-law, stays here with Jeremiah while the others are gone. I took advantage of this downtime and took a nap and then came back upstairs when they had returned.
On Tuesdays and Thursdays Christine works. It was my first big day on my own. Of course, my convertible was perfect for checking out the scenery. I stopped along the way going north on the coastal highway to see the Lapakahi State Historical Park. They estimate the village was started about 800 years ago. The waves crashing against the rocks were fun to watch. I attempted to photograph them as well as the thatched houses and lava walls.
I drove on north to Hawi and Kapa’au. There is an impressive statue of King Kamehameha the Great on the mauka side of the highway in Kapa’au honoring his birthplace. These sleepy little towns are surviving even though the sugar cane processing plant pulled out years ago. Lots of artists are calling this area home now.
At mile marker 25 I spotted a large banyan tree with a nifty tree house. I thought to myself how fortunate the kids are that live there. I also spotted a clever way a resident displayed his address. Before the last earthquake a popular activity was kayaking in the old Kohala Irrigation Ditch. The damage the earthquake caused brought that to an end. Darn, I would have enjoyed that novel kayaking situation.
My major objective was to reach the Pololu Valley Lookout. Highway 270 comes to an abrupt end here. I followed the trail down the 400 vertical foot drop to the beach. It was black sand and very picturesque. The surf and undertow are too violent to make it safe for swimming. I did take off my shoes and I waded around in the surf as I used my binoculars. I noticed a man and a woman weaving baskets from palm fronds near where I had parked my car. Needless to say, I bought one. I thought it was very cool to have my first souvenir made before my very eyes.
I drove back to Kona through the Kohala Mountains on highway 250. I climbed up to over 4,000 feet. The countryside was lush with several cattle and horse ranches there – the most famous one being the Parker Ranch. The vegetation changed as soon as I started coming back down the leeward side of the island.
I spent a little time down on a beach in Kona watching surfers and one outrigger canoe. It had six paddlers practicing going out and riding the surf in. I got back to Christine and Scott’s home around 6:00. What a wonderful and varied day I had.
I went jogging on our walking route Wednesday morning, going just a little further to explore a bit more of this beautiful neighborhood. When I got back I cleaned up and took my breakfast out on the deck. While eating I spotted a whale. I hope to see one or two daily. I also saw two wild turkeys pecking at the gravel along the roadside when I was running.
This was a day Christine could get away for a couple of hours and go out to lunch with me. I had her suggest her favorite place and she had a definite place in mind – the historic Kona Inn. I had her drive us but in my convertible. We had a good conversation over a delicious lunch in a lovely beach-side setting. We strolled through some of the shops nearby and I bought an Israel Kamakawiwo’ole, better known as IZ, CD. His gentle tenor voice and Hawaiian lyrics I found appealing. Through the rest of my stay I tended to listen to it when driving because it would put me in a mellow “Hawaii time” state of mind. Later in the afternoon I spent some time at the local Wal Mart getting my pictures I’d taken so far edited and some prints and a CD made.
Scott had left this morning with his 8th graders on a three-day field trip to Oahu. Christine prepared us “girls and boys” a baked chicken dinner. Cindy joined us on the deck for dinner. Afterwards we watched my Danny Gans DVD after she got the boys to bed. They agreed with me that he is not only a talented singer but a great impersonator. We all hit the hay around 9:00. There is a TV in my bedroom and the family computer. This has allowed me to check my emails on a regular basis. Very convenient.
This Thursday morning, I left early to make it to the office of Paradise Kayak and Snorkel. (Christine had given me a gift certificate to use there.) It appears to be a small time operation. I was the only customer. The lady in charge had me watch a safety video outside and then she loaded my kayak on foam strips on top of my car and lined me out with all the gear I would need to kayak and snorkel. She gave me a solo kayak and directions on how to get down to Kealakelua Bay. Thank goodness a couple of local guys were making pocket money helping people get their kayaks launched. Large waves were crashing into the pier this morning. It was a five foot drop down to my boat from the edge of the pier. He was invaluable in helping me get my boat and myself in the water, carefully timing it between the sets of surf coming in. Once away from the pier I found my kayak to be stable. I paddled about a mile across the bay and beached my kayak on the shore very close to the Captain Cook Monument (marking the spot where he was killed). It was erected in 1874 by British sailors. The water all along this area of the beach is crystal clear and teaming with coral and fish. I snorkeled for at least two hours. I probably saw over 25 different kinds of brilliantly colored fish. The Hawaiian state fish – the humuhumunukunukuapua was one I recognized. It was a great experience – especially due to the fact that this was the first day since the most recent earth quake that people were allowed to walk up to the monument.
I kayaked back across the bay and used the local help again to get my boat not only up on the pier but loaded up on my car. I’m glad I had some ones in my billfold so I could tip them. I took advantage of my location and visited the PAINTED CHURCH and then on to the PLACE OF REFUGE - Pu’uhonua o Honaunau. Both were well worth the time to visit. Back in ancient times, Hawaiian commoners could find asylum there. They could perform certain rituals mandated by the kahuna pule (priest) and after that, all was forgiven. The commoner could return home as if nothing had happened. Defeated warriors could also come here to await the victor of a battle. They could then pledge their allegiance to whoever won and live out their lives in peace. This refuge area was designated as a national park in 1961. There is a stone wall, called the Great Wall thought to have been built in the 1500’s. It is 1,000 feet long and 10 feet high and 17 feet thick in most places. It separated the Pu’uhonua from the Ali’is palace grounds. The reconstructed thatched structure called Hale-0-Keawe was originally a mausoleum, containing the bones of 23 chiefs. Bones were thought to contain supernatural power, or mana, and therefore ensured that the Place of Refuge would remain sacred. I tried to capture this special place along with the pounding surf with my camera.
On the drive back up to Kona, I turned my gear in (all on my own) because the place was already closed. I headed on back to “the ranch”. Christine brought a pizza home this evening when she returned home from work. We spotted whales again from her deck as we were eating.
On Friday morning, we took the boys on their morning outing. Afterwards we ventured to a new beach. You must drive through a resort to get to the public access. It was uncrowded and very nice. The boys enjoyed “wave crashing” as we called it and playing on the beach with their buckets and shovels. I did some snorkeling here. I wanted to compare it to where I had been Thursday. Kealakelua definitely rules.
*Christine and Scott were married outdoors at this resort and she drove me close enough to see the site of their wedding ceremony. The earthquake damage has caused the resort to close temporarily; only the golf course is currently in use. We timed our departure to mesh with Scott’s arrival at the Kona airport. He kept us entertained on the drive home with his stories of the group’s adventures and misadventures while staying in a YMCA camp up on the north shore of Oahu.
With Scott back, Christine and I took advantage on Saturday morning to go swimming. She drove us down to a small beach on the north end of Aliii Drive. It is actually the spot where the Iron Man swimmers start the race. We wore fins and masks so we could enjoy the underwater scenery and fish while swimming a 1½ mile round trip. We even got a great close up view of a sea turtle. He was eating whatever was growing on the chain between buoys. We rinsed off after getting out and had coffee at Huggo’s on the Rocks. Yes, it was right on the beach. The ladies in front of us when we were ordering recognized us. They were from the Bitterroot Valley. We had a great time visiting over our caffe mochas.
Saturday afternoon I was able to take off and drive up the infamous Saddle Road to Mauna Kea (13,796’). I parked at the ranger station at the 9,000 foot mark. I took a hike up a trail from there. A ranger suggested I hitch a ride up to the top with someone with four-wheel drive. I did that and got to the top in time to do a short hike to the highest point and see the sunset. It was very windy and VERY COLD up there at that elevation. The couple loaned me the extra flannel shirt they had in the truck. The scenery reminded me of a majestic moonscape. A dozen or so of the finest telescopes in the world are sprinkled about the summit. The air is thin and clear. I could see Mauna Loa in the distanace.
Back down at the ranger station, I got to look through a telescope they had lined up to see the moon. It was dark by then and the view of it was awesome; very detailed craters and other surface features. What a day of extremes – swimming at sea level in the morning and being on top of the world in the evening. The drive back was easy with very little traffic.
Today is Sunday, January 28th, special for more than one reason. Nathan was born on this day 31 years ago. This day also marks a full week I’ve been here – how the time has flown. I attended Grace Community Church with Christine, Scott, and boys. It is located even further up the mountain side than where they live. It is currently open-air because the building is so new. I actually liked feeling the breeze and seeing God’s greenery all around me. I had followed them to the service in my car so I could head on back home, change clothes and head for Kahalu’u Beach Park. It is easily accessible (concerning parking) and has good snorkeling. I wasn’t disappointed. I saw fish and sea turtles swimming all around me. After spending a couple of hours there, I ventured north to Kekaha Kai State Park. I had to drive a bumpy semi-paved 1½ mile road to get to it. The highlight there was whale watching. Two whales took turns performing. It seemed like two boys on a playground trying to outdo each other. They were powering their bodies clear out of the ocean with impressive sprays of water created on their landings. I joined a couple who had driven over for the day from Hilo. We watched them for almost half an hour. Two large sea turtles were napping on the beach nearby unimpressed. Needless to say we were very entertained! I drove back to Kona just before the sunset. The golden hues made everything take on a soft and enchanting glow.
Monday morning I took off on my journey toward Hilo – the windward side of the island. I headed south along the coast. My goal for today was to get to South Point and then to Green Sand Beach. By the end of the day, I decided both places were spectacular! On my drive along highway 11, I had to stop and take pictures of these two critters, obviously not native to the island. I also passed many macadamia nut groves. Actually getting to South Point was a challenge! I drove on an eight mile one lane semi-paved road to reach the southernmost point of the United States. The wind is always blowing out on the grassy plain leading to it, hence the Kamoa Wind Farm is located here.
South Point is the site of some of the oldest artifacts yet discovered in Hawaii (as early as 300 AD) and was probably the first place the Polynesians came ashore and settled even though the area was dry and desolate with no permanent streams. The waters, however, were incredibly rich fishing grounds. At the cliffs are old hoists, used to lower small boats. Metal Cliffside ladders are present as well. When the sea is calm, people will leap into the water from the boat hoist area and come back up via the metal ladder adjacent to a boat hoist. The day I was there the wind was gusting and the surf was violent and pounding into the cliffs. No one was jumping. The scenery was spectacular!! Mother Nature was displaying her magnificent power and beauty.
Off to the east of South Point is a strange phenomenon called Green Sand Beach. I had to walk almost three miles to get there. I did see a couple of mountain bikers and some four-wheelers on the trail while I was walking. Cars should NOT make this drive. It was well worth the walk, however. The trail went along a very scenic coastline and once I got to the beach, I did swim there because the surf was not up. I read that this unique beach owes its name and color to a large deposit of a semi-precious gem called olivine liberally mixed with black sand. There were probably a dozen or so people there when I was. I did take my day pack and water bottle on this walk because there is no shade and it is a six mile round trip back to my car.
Once I got my car back on highway 11, I headed on around the point and up the eastern coast line. I had made reservations at a B&B called MY ISLAND located in Volcano Village, Hawaii. The house itself has quite a history, built back in 1825, and is on a seven acre estate called “Hale Ohu” (house in the mist). I had a room in the house. There were also three garden units and five guest houses.
I found a service station open and fueled up, then found a restaurant open and had some soup and salad with a glass of wine. Back at the B&B, I relaxed in a stuffed chair and watched a little TV. Two young scientists were staying there also, researching VOG, a mixture of water vapor, carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide. They worked on their lap tops as we all chatted. Breakfast the next morning was absolutely wonderful. I was the first guest to arrive and Mr. Morse had a fire going in the fireplace and the coffee made already. It was a sit-down type breakfast with the muffins and coffee cake homemade.
I took a walk in their spectacular gardens before heading out to Volcano National Park. The flowers, their shapes and their colors, were exquisite that morning!
HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
PELE – Goddess of Hawaii Volcanoes
My first stop was at the visitor’s center. The 20 minute movie was excellent. I used a hiking guide prepared by my B&B host, starting with the Thurston Lava Tube. I was surprised to find a lush rain forest on my hike on the trail around the rim. I also saw vents spewing steam, but no flowing lava. My walk took me not only on the rim but down onto the floor of Kilauea Caldera. There were rock cairns to help me find my way across. I came out at the Halema’uma’u Crater viewpoint. A tourist from Iowa and his son were heading to the Lava tube and they gave me a ride back to my car. I was so ready to sit down and relax after my five mile hike.
I had Hilo as my next destination. Actually my B&B was in Kea’au. Christine had recommended it. Jerry Gardner greeted me, showed me my huge and very nice room, and also gave me a driving guide for sights to see in the area. I found it very helpful. It took me along the lava beaches, a rain forest, and the Wai’ Opae Tide Pools. I explored them some. My biggest treat was swimming in Ahalanui. It is an ocean pool with a man-made wall and an inlet separating it from the ocean.
The water is volcanically heated to a toasty 95 degrees. I must have stayed in the pool an hour; a full moon was coming up as I finally got out. It is near the town of Pahoa – known as the Big Island’s outlaw town. This is where dreadlock enthusiasts, FBI fugitives, and guerrilla gardeners coexist according to my guide book. In the pool I met two guys (one with dreadlocks) who had flown there with only one-way tickets. They had no jobs and were sleeping on the beach. In the town itself, I witnessed my first pizza robbery. Two guys stole a pizza off the counter while the owner’s back was turned. The owner leaped over the counter and chased them down the sidewalk and caught them. He hauled them back into his place and took them into a back room. They did not come out while I was there. Needless to say, I took my pizza back to my room at Art & Orchids B&B to eat. The town was living up to its reputation.
The next morning after a delicious breakfast and visit with Marklyn, the other owner and an artist in various media, I headed out to see two specific waterfalls. Rainbow Falls was my first stop. It is upland from Hilo and on a good road. I hiked around on a trail above the falls and found deep pools to dive and swim in. A couple was up there too and we really enjoyed swimming in cold fresh water.
A mile further up the road was Boiling Pots. It is a series of bowl-shaped depressions that roil and boil when the water flow is heavy. It was a calmer time so I did jump off a ledge into one of the pots.
What a blast!! Pe’epe’e Falls is off to the left. Again this was an adventure that didn’t have an admission price.
Back in Hilo, I did drive down Banyan Drive, where most of the hotels are located. Each banyan tree is named after the person who planted it. I found familiar names such as Amelia Earhart, King George V, Babe Ruth, and FDR. From Hilo I continued north on a beautiful coastal drive to Akaka Falls. It does a free-fall plunge of 420 feet. It was hard to capture its beauty with a camera but I did my best.
Christine said I needed to take a detour at Honoka’a and drive up to the Waipi’o Valley vista point. It was well worth the drive. The mile long road down to the beach is a 25% grade. If I had enough time it would have been worth walking down to the beach, but I was running out of daylight and I wanted to get back to Kona before dark. From the lookout I could see the steep walls of the cliffs and the mile-long black sand beach. The valley leading up to the beach is a lush wonderland where taro farming is still the main occupation. It was an awesome spectacle. My guide book said that the 50 or so residents who live in this valley have no power, water, sewage, phones, cell or TV coverage. Solar power and generators provide the electricity they need. Today the allure of Waipi’o Valley is beckoning experienced surfers, boogie boarders, and hikers, but it still remains a quiet, peaceful place.
I drove from this vista to Waimea, and from there the 36 miles back to Kona.
It was a great trip – never enough time to see everything. What I did see and do was fabulous!
My last full day was suppose to be one of snorkeling on the Kona side. The waves were too big and rough for the Sea Quest motorized rafts to get us to the spots.
The only heiau (temple) associated solely with surfing. The chiefs would pray for gnarly conditions and they usually got them. Today it is one of the most dependable breaks in Kona.
The first mongoose I’ve ever seen in the wild.
When I learned both my trips were cancelled I went to the Farmer’s Market down in Kona and did more sight seeing in the area.
I took Christine and Scott out to dinner at the Beachcomber Restaurant that night. It was a memorable evening because of the rain, wind, and pounding surf. The restaurant has no windows, only shutters. Half way through dinner, we were able to open the shutters and enjoy the view. The meal was marvelous – one we all enjoyed. Back at their home I had to start organizing and packing. I would be flying out the next day.
Kailua-Kona Airport
February 2nd came all too soon. I must say aloha to Hawaii. I do hope to return some day to this endless summer paradise. Everything went smoothly with checking in my car and catching my flight. It was a clear day and I was able to recognize the islands as we flew over them to get to Honolulu. I bought a photo album at the airport gift shop and spent part of my flight time to Seattle journaling and putting my pictures in, mostly in chronological order. Jeff picked me up at the airport right outside the door from where I got my luggage and whisked me back to his place. I am so glad I kept a journal and took pictures because already my time spent in Hawaii seems dreamlike.
Mahalo Christine and Scott for making this trip possible by being such gracious hosts.
